The Color Wheel & Hair Toning: Mastering Brassiness for Every Shade🎨

Whether you're a professional colorist or a beauty lover trying to understand your hair better, the color wheel is the ultimate guide to correcting unwanted tones. It’s not just a color theory tool — it’s your backstage pass to toning mastery.

Let’s break it down by underlying pigment, how it shows up in lightened hair, and the best way to tone it — with a focus on the two most notorious culprits: yellow and orange.

Understanding Underlying Pigments in Hair

Every hair color has natural underlying pigments. When we lighten hair, those undertones become exposed — and if not toned, they can throw off the desired result.

Natural Hair Level	Underlying Pigment	Appears As	Neutralizing Color
Level 1-3 (Dark brown-black)	Red	Red/brassy	Green
Level 4-5 (Medium brown)	Red-Orange	Orange/brassy	Blue-Green
Level 6-7 (Dark blonde)	Orange	Copper/brassy	Blue
Level 8 (Medium blonde)	Yellow-Orange	Golden/brassy	Blue-Violet
Level 9-10 (Light blonde)	Yellow	Pale yellow/warm	Violet

Hair color wheel

Orange & Yellow Tones: Why They Appear

These are the most common tones stylists battle after lightening services like:

• Full highlights

• Balayage

• Root touch-ups on dark bases

Why?

Orange appears when lifting from a medium base and stopping short of pale blonde Yellow shows up when the hair is lifted high enough but still holds warm pigment

Color & Tones with Levels of underlying pigments Chart

How to Tone Each Unwanted Tone

Orange Tones

Use: Blue-based toners or shampoos

• Great for Levels 5–7

• Helps create cooler, neutral blondes or brunettes

• Recommended: Wella Color Charm T14, Redken Shades EQ 8T

Yellow Tones

Use: Violet-based toners or purple shampoo

• Common in Levels 9–10

• Neutralizes golden hues to give icy or creamy blonde

• Recommended: Wella T18, Fanola No Yellow Shampoo

Before and After - Cleaning unwanted tones in blonde tones

At-Home Maintenance Tips

Help your clients keep that fresh-from-the-salon tone with:

• Purple shampoo (1–2x per week for blondes)

• Blue shampoo (for brunettes and darker blondes)

• Cool water rinses to help prevent color fade

• Avoiding high heat without protection

Purple / Blue Professional Shampoo's

Bonus: Quick Color Theory Reminders for Stylists

• When in doubt, check the opposite side of the color wheel

• Mix toners based on existing tone + goal tone

• Don’t forget underlying pigment history — especially if the client has old color or box dye

Final Thoughts

Correcting yellow and orange tones isn’t just about covering them — it’s about understanding the science and using the right tools to reveal the best version of the hair. With the right toner, proper lift, and a solid maintenance routine, your blondes and brunettes will stay brass-free and beautiful.

Need help with brassiness or want a custom color plan?

Book a consultation with our expert team at AG Hair Salon in Hollywood, FL.

954-924-9688 | www.aghairsalon.com